Making matzo (or matzah), the traditional unleavened crackers of Passover (April 12-20), is an 18-minute baking ballet for Amy Brown and Joe Wolf of Santa Rosa’s Marla Bakery.
“It’s a labor of love for Amy and I. We try to make it taste good and keep to traditions,” said Wolf.
According to ancient Jewish law, the clock begins ticking the moment water is added to flour, salt and olive oil. The dough must be mixed, hand-rolled and baked into lightly browned wafers within 18 minutes — the same amount of time it took the Israelites to make their swift escape from Egypt. No time for leavening, no time for intricate braids — just the essential life-sustaining carbohydrates needed for their long journey to Canaan.
Passover marks the anniversary of the Exodus. It’s a time when the Jewish community comes together to celebrate, give thanks and share meals with family and friends.
During this time, leavened bread is forbidden and is replaced by matzo, which many have a love-hate relationship with. Its dry, cracker-like texture can leave your mouth feeling like the Sahara, but according to Wolf, adding olive oil makes Marla’s matzo more palatable. While they aren’t a kosher bakery, their matzo follows the traditional 18-minute preparation process and tastes good, he said.
“Passover is a time of celebration where we all come together and have a wonderful time,” said Wolf. “It’s a time to have fun and welcome people over to eat.”
Marla’s matzoth (plural of matzo) are available by preorder on their website, marlabakery.com, until 5 p.m. April 8 or, in limited amounts, at their shop (208 Davis St., Santa Rosa, 707-852-4091) from Friday, April 11, through Sunday, April 13. They’ll also have chocolate-dipped macaroons and a flourless chocolate torte for Passover.
More than matzo
Food is at the heart of the Passover celebration, beginning with the traditional Seder meal on April 12. Throughout the week, a variety of dishes are enjoyed, from brisket and lamb to matzo ball soup, smoked fish and macaroon cookies.
Though many Jewish families spend days preparing these meals, some Sonoma County restaurants and bakeries are doing the work for you.
Grossman’s Noshery & Bar
À la carte dinner, available for pickup April 12-20, includes brisket with potato leek latkes and horseradish cream, lamb shanks, chicken shawarma kebabs, a smoked meat board, smoked and pickled fish board, Sabich board (fried eggplant, falafel, tabbouleh, matzo crackers and condiments), pomegranate molasses roasted carrots, matzo ball soup and chocolate orange sesame macaroons. Order online at grossmanssr.com. 308 Wilson St., Santa Rosa, 707-595-7707
La Bodega
This Sebastopol restaurant will host a traditional Passover service with a Seder Plate and Feast from 6 p.m., Saturday, April 12, with matzo ball soup, saffron chicken, stuffed cabbage and a Jerusalem artichoke and shiitake mushroom cassoulet. $59 for adults and $29 for children under 12. Reservations required. The meal can also be ordered for take-and-bake. 2295 Gravenstein Highway South, Sebastopol, 707-827-1832, sonomawineshop.com
Drewish Deli
Pick up your Passover meal at Healdsburg’s favorite Jewish deli. The meal includes housemade brisket au jus, gefilte fish with horseradish aioli, Bubbie’s matzo ball soup, noodle kugel and flourless chocolate mini cakes. $189, available for pickup April 11-14. Also available à la carte. Preorder only. 11 Mitchell Lane, Healdsburg, 707-955-0600, drewishdeli.com
Fun Fact: The Seder dinner traditionally features three matzoth. One, called the afikomen, is broken into two pieces, and the larger half is hidden by an adult. Children then search the house to find it, and the one who locates it is rewarded a small prize for returning it.
Matzo
From Amy Brown of Marla Bakery.
Makes 12 matzo
2 pounds bread flour (7 1/2 cups)
2 tsp. salt
3 ounces olive oil
1 1/2 cup water
Sea salt to top
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a mixer, combine all ingredients (except for the sea salt for topping). Mix on low speed until well combined. Remove from the mixer and divide the dough into 12 equal balls. Cover the balls with a wet towel or plastic wrap. One by one, roll each ball as thin as possible on a lightly-floured, upside-down baking sheet. Sprinkle with sea salt and use a fork to dock the dough. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake until crisp.
For more springtime celebrations in Sonoma County, check out dozens of local Easter happenings.
Celebrate the season with tradition and flavor. Whether you're hosting a Seder or just savoring the tastes of Passover, support local artisans like Marla Bakery and enjoy handcrafted matzo and sweet treats made with love. Preorder now at marlabakery.com before April 8, or stop by one of Sonoma County’s many delicious destinations for a festive meal made easy. L’Chaim — to life, to community, and to good food!
