The Comeback of Chenin Blanc: A Rising Star in Sonoma Wine Country
Where to Taste Chenin Blanc:
Matanzas Creek Winery
- 6097 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa
- 707-528-6464
- Website: matanzascreek.com
Aperture Cellars
- 12291 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg
- 707-200-7891
- Website: aperture-cellars.com
Pangloss Cellars
- 35 East Napa St., Sonoma
- 707-933-8565
- Website: panglosscellars.com
DuMol
- (Tastings by appointment only; wines allocated to members)
- 1400 American Way, Windsor
- 707-948-7144
- Website: dumol.com
As Wine Country’s event season kicks off in full swing, it’s not uncommon for calendars to fill with tasting parties nearly every week throughout the summer. For wine enthusiasts and industry insiders alike, these gatherings are more than just social affairs—they're valuable opportunities to explore emerging trends and rediscover classic varietals making a modern resurgence.
One such trend quietly turning heads is the unexpected comeback of Chenin Blanc.
At February’s International White Wine Festival in Anderson Valley, this versatile white varietal made a strong showing, standing out among a sea of Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays. A 2023 bottle from Matanzas Creek reminded many why Chenin Blanc once held a cherished place in Sonoma County history.
During the 1970s and ’80s, Chenin Blanc was a prominent grape in the region, but its popularity waned as Chardonnay became the go-to white wine. Early California Chenin Blancs were often uninspired—semisweet, flat, and cheaply made. Today, however, the story is different.
The modern iteration of Sonoma County Chenin Blanc is bright, crisp, and vibrant—typically dry and aromatic, brimming with tropical fruit, Asian pear, and golden apple, lifted by zesty acidity and a mineral-driven finish.
The 2023 Matanzas Creek Chenin Blanc, crafted by winemaker Marcia Torres Forno, exemplifies this revival. It’s refreshingly dry with intriguing notes of lemongrass, melon, and a touch of salinity. Forno sourced grapes from the River Junction appellation south of Lodi, blending them with estate-grown fruit from Alexander Valley and Mendocino County to produce a distinctive, 100% Chenin Blanc expression.
Another standout emerged at the Sonoma Epicurean Epic Party at Bacchus Landing in Healdsburg, where Jesse Katz, winemaker and founder of Aperture Cellars, was pouring his 2023 Chenin Blanc. It’s elegant and expressive, with notes of white blossoms, lemon, and that same subtle sea salt nuance. At just 12.2% ABV, it fits beautifully into the growing trend toward low-alcohol wines.
“I’m not exactly sure why Chenin Blanc went out of style,” said Katz, who began working with the varietal in 2017. “When Chardonnay started fetching higher prices, we lost a lot of Chenin sites that may have actually been better suited to it.” Katz now sources his Chenin from a 40-year-old heritage vineyard in the Clarksburg AVA, one of the oldest Chenin-growing regions in California.
Looking ahead, Katz is especially enthusiastic about his upcoming 2024 vintage. “It’s incredibly special,” he said. “It’s got some of the most complex and concentrated flavors I’ve ever seen, but it’s also fresh and age-worthy. I think it’ll go down as one of the best vintages in the past 20-plus years.”
Meanwhile, Andy Smith, winemaker and partner at DuMol in Windsor, is all-in on Chenin’s future. In addition to cultivating a small block at his MacIntyre Estate Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast, he recently planted 900 more vines on steep terraces at the Eddie’s Patch site in the Russian River Valley.
As producers experiment with Chenin Blanc’s many expressions, sparkling versions are beginning to emerge as well. One new favorite: the 2021 Sparkling Chenin Blanc from Pangloss Cellars, made in the Méthode Traditionnelle. Sourced from Two Creeks Farm in Kenwood, this bubbly bursts with bright citrus and floral aromatics, and pairs beautifully with unexpected bites like caviar and potato chips.
Best of all, Chenin Blanc still offers exceptional value. Matanzas Creek’s 2023 vintage retails for around $20, Aperture’s 2024 vintage is priced at $35, and Pangloss’s sparkling Chenin is $52. DuMol’s wines are allocated to members and available by appointment at the winery.
Ready to Taste for Yourself?
From crisp still wines to elegant sparklers, Chenin Blanc is making a bold return to Sonoma’s spotlight. Visit the tasting rooms above to explore this re-emerging classic—and experience firsthand what the buzz is all about.
