Don’t get Sondra Bernstein started on the joys of drinking wines made from the Grenache grape.
“I could go on and on about Grenache, as it’s my favorite of the Rhone varietals,” the Sonoma restaurateur and caterer said. “I love its versatility with food and the very different expressions that winemakers can create using the same variety.”
Nearly three decades ago, Bernstein opened her first Sonoma County restaurant, the girl & the fig, in Glen Ellen and later moved it to the square in Sonoma and installed the fig café at the Glen Ellen space (where Poppy is now). At each of her restaurants, the wine lists have focused on wines made from grapes native to France’s Rhone Valley: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne among them.
Now, many of Bernstein’s vino offerings are locally made, including the Grenache, an emerging darling of Sonoma red wines that’s winning fans for its unabashed, Zinfandel-like fruitiness, the spice of Syrah and Shiraz and the polish of Pinot Noir. It’s the key ingredient in what’s known throughout the world as GSMs — blends of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre — the grape of choice for many dry rosés and cousin to the white grape Grenache Blanc.
But it’s Grenache Noir (Grenache black) that’s capturing the palates of those seeking something new in a California red wine.
“Twenty years ago, wines made from Grenache were far and few between here,” Bernstein said. “Maybe we had three or four when (the girl & the fig) opened in 1997, though none were from Sonoma. Now we feature over a dozen wines made from Grenache and have many hundreds to choose from.”
The aroma and flavor descriptors for Grenache run a wide gamut, from lavender, Bing cherry and plum to black pepper, licorice and Asian spice.
Some Grenaches are opulent and jammy, others laser-focused, with fresh fruitiness and palate-whisking acidity, and still others earthy and brooding.
Grenache is widely planted throughout the world, including in the Central Valley, where massive yields of low-quality grapes go into jug and bag-in-box wines. It’s a niche variety in Sonoma County, with just 209 acres planted (versus 12,478 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon). The variety loves a warm, Mediterranean climate, so climate change could encourage more plantings of Grenache in future years.
There are a number of Sonoma tasting rooms that offer Grenache, in its black, white and rosé forms. Some key producers don’t have tasting rooms, yet their wines can be found on restaurant lists and in wine bars. (Two to check out: Peter Mathis Wine and The Grenachista Wine Co.)
These five wineries welcome visitors to taste Grenache and several other varieties. Check their websites for hours of operation and whether appointments are required.
Dot Wines
This small, family-owned winery stunned judges in the North Coast Wine Challenge earlier this year when three of its wines won Double Gold and made it to the final sweepstakes round. Among them was Dot Wines’ 2024 Russian River Valley Grenache ($35), receiving 98 points. The wine, sourced from Riversmoke Vineyard, was also rated as the best of the Grenache varietal. Developed using natural winemaking practices, the wine shines with notes of berries and summer stone fruits, with a balanced acidity. Fun fact: Dot Wines’ Grenache features artwork from winemaker Lise Asimont’s husband, Shawn.
14210 Bacchus Landing Way, Suite 201, Healdsburg, 707-385-9855, dotwinery.com
Benovia Winery
Although Benovia partner and winemaker Mike Sullivan is largely known for his excellent Russian River Valley Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, he has a soft spot for Grenache.
That’s because the grape is planted in his family’s Four Brothers Vineyard on Sonoma Mountain, where volcanic soils and aromatic wild herbs lend savory notes to the Benovia 2021 Sonoma Mountain Grenache ($45).
It shows the polished side of the varietal, layered and complex, with herb and cedarwood notes accenting the bright dark-red fruit. The supple tannins are supported by crisp acidity.
3339 Hartman Road, Santa Rosa, 707-921-1040, benoviawinery.com
Kokomo Winery
Erik Miller started the Kokomo label in 2004, and in 2008 partnered with grapegrower Randy Peters, who farms vines in Dry Creek Valley, Russian River Valley and the Sonoma Coast.
Zinfandel and Pinot Noir are Kokomo staples, though the 2024 Pauline’s Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Grenache Rosé ($28), 2023 Dry Creek Valley Grenache ($38) and 2023 Cuvee Red Blend North Coast ($28), with a wallop of Dry Creek Valley Grenache, show Miller’s deft hand with the Grenache grape. “Grenache has a great future in Dry Creek Valley,” Miller said. “We’ve only scratched the surface.”
4791 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-0200, kokomowines.com
The Meeker Vineyard
In 1977, Charles and Molly Meeker bought their first vineyard on West Dry Creek Road in Healdsburg and started their winery in 1984. Charlie, a movie executive in Los Angeles, made the wines on weekends and became known for his Zinfandels and Merlots.
The Meekers sold the Dry Creek Road property (now Bella Vineyards + Wine Caves) in the late 1990s and established a new winery near downtown Healdsburg. Charlie turned over day-to-day winemaking to his son, Lucas, in 2007.
Lucas has a way with Grenache, which is quickly becoming one of Meeker’s most popular wines. The 2022 North Coast Grenache ($36) beckons with lively aromas of red plum, white peach, dried herbs and black tea. Red fruit notes on the palate transcend to a citrusy blood orange, culminating in a dry, smooth finish.
5 Fitch St., Unit B, Healdsburg, 707-431-2148, meekerwine.com
Unti Vineyards
George Unti and his son, Mick, founded Unti Vineyards in 1997, based on their shared love of Rhone Valley and Italian wines. Their Dry Creek Valley vineyards and wines made from them reflect their tastes, and Grenaches Noir and Blanc are particular favorites.
The 2024 Dry Creek Valley Grenache Blanc ($38) is made in a high-acid, scintillating French Chablis style. On the red side, the 2023 Dry Creek Valley Grenache ($40) has heady aromas and succulent dark-red fruit character, with mouthwatering acidity. The Grenache-Mourvedre-Syrah blend is complex, with a lingering finish. The 2024 Dry Creek Valley Grenache Noir Rosé ($38) features bright red fruits on the nose with a rich, balanced acidity and minerality on the palate.
4202 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-5590, untivineyards.com
Ready to experience Grenache for yourself? Plan a visit to one of these Sonoma wineries, explore the full spectrum of Grenache styles, and discover why this versatile varietal is becoming a local favorite. Raise a glass to your next wine country adventure!
